Robert Parker notes on the 2003 Paganelli cru Brunello di Montalcino: "I was completely blown away"

Although the "riserva" bottling of Brunello di Montalcino by the Tenuta Il Poggione has always been made from grapes sourced exclusively from our top cru, the Paganelli vineyard, with "old" vines up to the 40 and more years of age, the 2003 Riserva is the first time in the history that we have labeled the wine as a cru "Paganelli".

Here is what Robert Parker reviewer Antonio Galloni has said about the wine when he tasted it last year. We have presented the wine the week before the last in Chicago and New York and we will present it this week to journalists and to consumers this week at the Benvenuto Brunello in Montalcino.

"The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is made from old vines in the estate’s Paganelli vineyard in Sant’Angelo in Colle. It is surprisingly fresh in its expression of red cherries, tobacco, leather, earthiness and spices. Deceptively medium in body, the wine reveals gorgeous length and a refined, silky finish, both qualities that are exceptionally rare in this vintage. This is high-class Sangiovese. In the torrid 2003, winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci gave the Riserva 12 days of fermentation/maceration on the skins, and aged the wine in large French oak casks. For the Riserva the estate vinfies with 100% stems, and also uses a higher percentage of newer oak. I wouldn’t be surprised to see the 2003 Riserva merit a higher score in a few years. The 1975 Riserva – from another super-hot vintage- was breathtaking when last tasted about two years ago?.and the Paganelli vineyard was only 10 years old at the time! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2028. 

I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. Readers who want to experience first-class Sangiovese from Montalcino won’t want to miss these exceptional wines. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world".

Antonio Galloni
 

Comments

[Tom Hyland]

Alessandro:

You also poured the 2004 Riserva in Chicago, correct? I've got notes on this wine - I hope I wrote down the vintage correctly.

[Alessandro Bindocci]

Hi Tom. Sorry for the delay but I somehow missed the comment. In Chicago I poured the Rosso di Montalcino 2008, the Brunello di Montalcino 2004 and 2005 and the Riserva 2004. No Riserva 2003.