Montalcino Report

Old vines and the 2003 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino

That is a two-hundred-years-old olive tree on Il Poggione's estate in Sant'Angelo in Colle (Montalcino). Il Poggione has been growing grapes and olive trees for centuries. Many of the vineyards where we source the fruit for our wines were planted nearly 50 years ago and that is why even in a very hot summer like the summer of 2003, our "old vines" have the roots that are able to reach down to the water table and find water. The Brunello di Montalcino DOC does not allow the winemaker to irrigate. Therefore, dry farming is obligatory for all wineries making Brunello di Montalcino. 2003 was a difficult vintage because of the extreme heat but we were able to produce a classic Brunello di Montalcino, with good balance, nonetheless, because our vines, like those in our cru Paganelli, which are more than 40-years-old, were still able to reach the water.

We were very happy to see these recent tasting notes in the Wine & Spirits magazine:

Il Poggione selects its Brunello from vines that are at least 20 years old, when they've rooted deeply through the subsoil and can weather the intense heat of a vintage like 2003. This brooding wine is all muscle when first poured, with powerful tannins supporting rich plum flavor. It reveals more definition with air, the fruit aspect turning redder (strawberries, cherries) even as the sinewy tannins maintain their firm grip.  Classically styled, with immense structure supporting its many layers, this wine will continue to develop over the next decade.

Even in 2003, thanks to our old vines, we were able to make a classic Brunello, well-balanced, and expressing the typicity of our terroir.

Benvenuto Brunello Day 1 - 20/02/2009

The presentation of the Brunello 2004 started with the first day dedicated to journalists. As you can see from the photos, a lot of wineries were pouring and a lot of journalists came to visit and taste. 

We got some fantastic feedback on all the three wines, Rosso di Montalcino 2007, Brunello di Montalcino 2004 and Brunello di Montalcino 2003 Riserva Vigna Paganelli.

Benvenuto Brunello Day 0 - Evening of 19/02/2009

We had a great dinner and tasting with a group of friends and journalists with wines from Il Poggione and our friends and neighbours Col d'Orcia. 

That's the owner of Il Poggione Leopoldo Franceschi with the yellow tie and my father Fabrizio Bindocci in the photo.

The dinner was prepared by Roberto Rossi from the famous Ristorante Silene on the Amiata mountain and the wines poured were: 

Rosso di Montalcino 2007

Brunello di Montalcino 2004

Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Riserva

Brunello di Montalcino 1980

Grappa di Brunello

There were about 40 people attending and we really had a great time.

Requiescat in pace: Teobaldo Cappellano

Every one at Benvenuto Brunello was sad to learn of the expiration of Barolo producer Teobaldo Cappellano. Like us at Il Poggione, who believe that Brunello di Montalcino should be made with 100% Sangiovese, he was always working to protect that Barolo was made from 100% Nebbiolo. 

Rest in peace, Teobaldo. You will be missed by all of us in the Italy wine community. Requiescat in pace.

Winter pruning and notes from sunny San Diego

Our friend Jon sent us this picture of 2003 Brunello di Montalcino from sunny San Diego California USA.

In the heart of winter here in Sant'Angelo in Colle, we have been conducting what is called the winter pruning in the vineyards (I will do a post on this with photos later this week). Therefore, I was happy to receive an email from our friends Jayne and Jon in the sunny San Diego California USA where they celebrated Valentine's Day with the 2003 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino at their restaurant Jayne Gastropub. Jon wrote us to tell us how much his customers are enjoying the wine, which is showing really well right now. 

As many of you know, 2003 was a very warm vintage in Montalcino and in Europe in general with temperatures unusually high and the climate very dry during the summer. Our appellation, Brunello di Montalcino, does not allow for irrigation and therefore, you needed very old vines like ours to reach the water table because younger vines do not have the roots as deep. 

The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is one with riper fruit than in a more classic vintage than, for example, the 2004, which we just recently presented at Benvenuto Brunello. At Il Poggione, because our vineyards lie at a higher altitude than most, and as a result the vines are cooled in the nighttime, we were able to produce a Brunello that remains classic in style but also reflects the characteristics of the vintage. I think that it is already drinking very well right now and the 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (which is also just released) will be drinking well very soon, as well.

Back in October after the members of the Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino voted to maintain Brunello di Montalcino made as 100% Sangiovese, Jayne Gastropub did this fun event called I HEART Brunello. 

It is good to know that someone, somewhere in the world is warm. And he is drinking good Brunello di Montalcino! Thank you Jayne Gastropub! 

Benvenuto Brunello Italian edition begins next Friday at the Fortezza

Every year at the Italian edition of Benvenuto Brunello, a commemorative "piastrella" or "tile" is commissioned to celebrate the event. The piastrelle are then affixed to a wall every year in the municipal palace. This is the piastrella for 2005.

It has been a long day today: we are preparing for the Italian edition of Benvenuto Brunello that begins for the journalists on Friday February 20th and Saturday 21st. The tasting will be held inside the Fortezza in Montalcino as it is all the years. More than 150 winemakers of Brunello di Montalcino will be presenting their 2004 Brunello di Montalcino and their 2007 Rosso di Montalcino, together with 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Moscadello, and Sant'Antimo.

NOTA BENE: Friday and Saturday are reserved only for journalists.

At 11:00 a.m. on Saturday at the Teatro degli Astrusi, the Golden Holm Oak prizes will be awarded to different restaurateurs and retailers of note and the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino will announce its official star rating for the 2008 vintage.

On Sunday the tasting is open to the general public at the Fortezza. Please stop by my table if it happens you come by.

Now it is time to go to sleep here in Sant'Angelo in Colle! I am tired at 11 p.m. on Saturday night.

Buon San Valentino to Everyone! 

Misty-Eyed about Montalcino, Alder Yarrow's love affair with Tuscany

 

Image courtesy Photo Fabio MUZZI © http://www.fabiomuzzi.it.

It's cold now in Montalcino and Sant'Angelo, with temperatures dropping down to the low 30s in the nighttime. I've been traveling a lot and I am tired and a little blue. That is why I was so happy to read this post by Alder Yarrow where he talks about the magic of springtime in the Val d'Orcia. I wish it were springtime here now, like the image above by Fabio.

Alder wrote:

Anyone who doesn't fall even just a little bit in love with Tuscany the first time they visit should probably be locked away from the world. There's something magical about the place that suffuses every bit of the landscape, the food, the people, and the very air.

The first time I visited with (then girlfriend) Ruth we managed to hit it perfectly at the peak of Spring -- the hills were green, the poppies in full bloom, little puffy clouds in the sky, 80 degrees... you get the picture. Makes me misty-eyed just thinking about it.

Alder Yarrow's blog Vinography is one of the U.S. top wine blogs. He recently tasted a lot of Brunello di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva at Benvenuto Brunello. I am not a believer in scores because I think that everyone's palate is different and personal. But I think that Alder's scores and tasting notes are always balanced and true. And not just because he gives high scores to the winery where my father and I make wine! ;)

He also gives a good background on our appellation and what has been happening here.

Click here to read his post.

Thanks, Alder, for reminding me how to fall in love with Tuscany! 

Thanks Benvenuto Brunello New York City

The New York edition of Benvenuto Brunello 2009 was a huge success this year! (Photo by Elsa Ruiz.)

It's always great to be in New York City and see all my friends and meet all the great wine professionals there. Thank yous to everyone who came to taste with me and the other Brunello producers for Bevenuto Brunello 2009 on Wednesday January 28.

Many do not remember that the first edition of Benvenuto Brunello in New York was scheduled for November 2001. After the tragic events of September 11, many food and wine events were cancelled that fall in the City. But in Montalcino it was decided that we should move forward with the event to help support New Yorkers and all the people who work in the wine trade and restaurant business there. And so the first Benvenuto Brunello was held in New York in November 2001. We are so glad that we did: we were received very enthusiastically by our New York sisters and brothers. And we plan to come back every year!

Thank you, again, to everyone who came to taste and meet with us! See you in 2010! 

Thanks to everyone at Benvenuto Brunello San Francisco

The Benvenuto Brunello tasting in San Francisco last month was a big success (photograph by Jenn Farrington).

I would like to thank everyone who came to taste and support Brunello di Montalcino and to warmly thank everyone who helped to create this wonderful event.